Our Teardrop Trailer Chassis is a weld-together original. Many Tear droppers choose to purchase a bolt together trailer from Red trailers or a similar trailer supply company. I researched these trailer chassis for quite some time but never found one that would satisfy me with build quality and stability. Most of them seem poorly designed and made of inferior materials. Here is my list of demands for the chassis:
- 3500lb axle
- Accepts standard sized Jeep wheels (5 on 4.5″)
- Options to put a rear hitch receiver and tow hooks.
- Tongue length long enough to minimize damage to Jeep or trailer when jack-knifed
- submersible LED trailer lighting
- submersible hubs
- Removable tongue to go from a standard coupler to a Lock’N’Roll coupler
Since I am rather picky (obviously) but I have some good suppliers, I chose to make my own chassis from scratch (see my drawing below).
I drew up my design and determined all of the parts and materials I would need. I started making orders.
The Axle: I ordered the 3500lb axle and springs from Southwest Wheel. I also ordered fenders from them since it was easier to do it all at once and helped my shipping rates. I got a 75″ hub to hub axle. This would allow about a 1.5″ gap between the fender and the side of the trailer. This gap will make cleaning mud out of the wheel well easier. Plus, I want to be able to remove the teardrop body from the chassis for maintenance and to use the trailer for other utility needs. This gap allows for those needs. I am pleased with the product that Southwest Wheel has produced. I did have some problems with this company that they eventually worked out. Read more under Material Suppliers.
I chose to over-sling the axle. With the wheel & tire combination I have, I already have 14″ of clearance. With the axle over-slung, the frame is within 1/2″ of the height of the Jeep. When Senior Management and I decide to put a lift kit on the Jeep, then I may under-sling the axle for an additional 4″ of clearance (approximately 23″).
After the first trip in the jPod, I was impressed with how smooth the ride was. However, since I plan to use it in off-road situations, I decided to install a shock system just to tame the springs a bit. On the street, it rides just fine but it is probably a bit hot for off-roading. I plan to install the Monroe RV & Trailer Retrofit Kit.
The Wheels & Tires: I had four 15″ Jeep wheels that I knew I could use for this project. I picked the two best ones and had BF Goodrich All-Terrain A/T (235/75 R15) put on them. These are a common off-road tire that sports a triple reinforced sidewall. It is also the tire I hope to put on the Jeep after my current set of tires wear out. The reason for standard-sized tires is two-fold. The first reason is the obvious off-road application and the second is so I only have to carry one spare tire that will fit both the jPod and the Jeep. My only disappointment is that the bearing caps on the trailer axle stick out too far to put the Jeep hub caps back on. However, I do take the Jeeper’s code to heart (“Jeeps are not made they are built”) and plan to figure out a way to make those hubcaps work sometime in the future. I also plan to add brakes in the future but for this camping season do not plan to need them. The radius of the wheel & tire combo is 14″. Add that to the spring height and the frame of the trailer will have about 17″ of clearance (perfect!).
The Teardrop Trailer Frame: I wanted this trailer to be useful off-road behind a Jeep so a stronger frame is necessary. I’m a teacher and called up the school’s Industrial Technology teacher and found that I could get the steel for the chassis through the school at a discounted rate (very NICE). I ordered 12ga 2″x2″ square steel tube for the outside of the trailer and 12ga 2″x1″ channel for the internal structure. The channel will provide nice places to attach the body with 3/8″ stainless bolts.
Once the 20′ sections arrived, I started fabricating. I haven’t welded for about 11 years so I took a day to practice and then got right into it. After the frame was square, level, and welded into place, I welded four 4″ plates into the frame (at each corner). These will be for stabilizer jacks. So far, I have only purchased two stabilizer jacks but I can add two later if we think it is necessary. Then I added the cross members with the channel facing the rear of the trailer so they won’t collect mud and dirt. I also added a few off-road features: Four tow hooks (from two Blazers at a wrecking yard. They are WAY too burly but were $2 each), a hitch receiver on the back of the frame (easy place to attach a wench or pull the trailer backward if necessary. I have also considered making a table which could attach here.), and a steel battery tongue plate (most commercial tongue plates are wimpy. This one would survive a nuclear explosion). All in all, the frame is overbuilt. It should be able to take the unusual forces of Back-country driving without any problems. Plus, I plan to use it as a utility trailer to haul wood and other heavy objects. Overbuilt for a teardrop trailer but I’m planning to multitask with this trailer so it is beefy.
As almost an afterthought, I capped the ends of the frame. I was thinking about water crossings and standing water isn’t good to haul around inside your steel framed trailer. I don’t plan to do deep water crossings but up to 15″ could be possible without the trailer being swept away.
The fenders were ordered from Southwest Trailer (see Links). I chose to bolt them to the chassis. This way I can remove them to access the side of the jPod if there is any paint that needs repairing.
The Shocks: I chose to go with Monroe’s Trailer Retrofit Kit. I used the jPod for a camping season and noticed that it rode fine on paved roads but got jumpy on bumpy or off-road driving. The Monroe kit is exactly what it took to get the job done. I am very happy with their product. Here’s my write up of the kit.
Paint & Finish: I ground down all of my welds that needed to be even with the frame (and some welds that sucked). Then I brushed the entire trailer with a braided brush that I put on my hand grinder. Senior Management and I finished the chassis with Rust-oleum’s Professional Flat Black brush-on enamel (4 coats – 5 on the fenders). I have considered having it powder coated but right now the price is more than the budget for this project can take. Since I am designing this trailer so that it can be used for multiple purposes, I could, in the future, drive out from under the body and have the chassis powder coated. We’ll see how happy we are with the enamel until then. When I attached the brackets for the lights, I put silicone between the bracket and the frame and then screwed them together with a self-tapping sheet metal screw that comes with a rubber gasket for sealing. I also put two layers of undercoating under my fenders to help them last longer with lots of rock, dirt, and grime.
Lights: One of my requirements was to have submersible LED trailer lights. I got them at eTrailer.com and put them on. Everything works great. The only thing I changed with their kit was the wire nuts for the tail lights. I replaced them with some real wire clips & dielectric grease.
THE Teardrop Trailer CHASSIS IS DONE!
How long did it take to weld, grind, paint, wire, and prep?: about 80 hours (not bad)
Washington State Licensing & Title: Washington state requires homemade trailers to be inspected. This is a typical government process that takes about 30 days to get an appointment (I called on July 7). I should have asked for an appointment before I started this project. However, the State Patrol called me and set up an appointment for July 18. Only 11 days!
To get a title in Washington, I need to take a few things with me:
- All the receipts for all of the components to the trailer.
- Have it weighed (the waste to energy plants will do it for free)
- Some $ (because I expect some fees -although they didn’t tell me about any)
The inspection got me a title and VIN# to put on the trailer frame. As long as the trailer has a deck on it, WSP can issue me a title. Without it, they’ll just give me a 3-year permit which I’ll have to renew.
I got a title and the trailer passed just fine. The officer thought it looked good and beefy. She even liked the removable tongue! It is licensed.
Interesting fact: In the state of Washington, it is cheaper to get a marriage license than it is to license a trailer.
Here are some final specs:
- Total Weight=340 lbs
- Size= 5′ x 10′
- Tongue length = 39″
- Add rock-guards around trailer lights. Nathan suggested this on one of the photos and after reading about other tears getting little nicks and cracks from rocks (on the mikenchell forum), I’m going to fabricate some steel shields for the trailer lights.
- This teardrop trailer frame is WAY overbuilt and channel steel would be plenty for off-road use.
- Monroe quit making their trailer shock kit. I would use a torsion axel instead next time. I’d just get it for a few hundred pounds heavier than the trailer to make sure it could handle the offroad application.
- For stability, I’d go with an A frame style tongue. Plus it increases the area for storage when towing.